Few years ago, the first post of bicyclosis was about a new way of mounting a u-lock to a rack. By the time, the system seemed to work perfectly and my girlfriend was excited by this technique that eliminated the hassle and the clank noises. But after some months, she didn’t want the rack and also she got tired of having to mount the lock with the bungees. So I had to find something new. Few years later (yes, I know I should think of something earlier) I think I found the perfect DIY holster. Its ideal for bikes with small frames that don’t have enough space for a holster, but It works beautifully on every kind and size of frame.
You see, my girlfriend’s bike frame has a weird low-weight / small frame that is so small and nothing can fit inside. Not even a u-lock.That made the DIY holster a challenge because the frame holsters are way easier to make and provide much more stability for a heavy u-lock to mount on. After some days of experimenting I had the idea to mount the ulock under the saddle. Of course, that would be much easier if the saddle was higher or if the frame wasn’t that weird (specialized crosstrail small).
Anyway, after some tries and errors I came up with a holster that works beautifully and makes the mounting/dismounting very easy and quick. It also offers some protection from the road vibrations.
Here is the instructions! If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask me!
What you are going to need:
– A small piece of a relatively thick branch
– Inner tube
– Old leather belt you don’t want (You can use innertube if you don’t have one)
– A wire hanger or thick wire
– A hacksaw (or any other type of saw that works for you)
– A drill
– Big zip ties
– Pair of scissors
– Bungee cords you don’t need (Or again, if you don’t have, use inner tube instead)
1. First of all we need to make the base of our holster. This little thing will support almost the whole weight of the heavy U-lock. So, you can find a thick piece of branch – maybe as thick as y your seatpost (I love this material, you can find it anywhere) and cut it to the length of your seatpost’s width (give or take).
2. Now, using a knife cut off a side of the branch to make it seat nicely on the seatpost (the pic bellow is from a next step but it shows you the cutting).
3. Cut in half a piece of an old leather belt long enough to wrap around the wooden part – PLUS 5 or more so centimeters. Open a hole on each end of it. To make it easier to hook and unhook, make an additional cut on the hole (You can watch the video to see how it works).
4. Now the tricky part (not really). Drill a hole in the middle of the upper part of the wooden part. similar to the pic and sketch. Have a look at the close up as well. Cut a piece of a metal hanger or a thick wire and make it go through the hole. Make sure you make a hook at the end like you see at the pic. The curvature of the hook must press the end of the leather strip down securely. The end of the wire should be hammered down.
5. We are almost there. Drill two or three holes on the side of the wooden piece. These are the holes that zip ties will go through to secure this little base to your seatpost. So, wrap tightly a piece of inner tube around the seatpost and press against it the wooden base so it wont unfold. Now use two zip ties (or three) to secure it snugly on place.
6. Final step. Cut a piece of bungee cord (if you can’t find one, you can use an inner tube) and knot its two ends on the upper ends of the saddle rails. You can use the rest of the belt if you want to make this nicer. When you finish, make the U part of your lock to go through it so you can hook it on the base underneath it. It should look like the first pic of the article.
Watch the video bellow to see the hook/unhook in action. Works great!